Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, France 2008

The vineyards of Larrivet-Haut-Brion lie on the same ridge of gravel as the aforementioned near neighbours Haut-Bailly and La Louvière. The red vines, which dominate the vineyards, are 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot and are aged around 20 years, the average age remaining low because of active replanting. The vineyard has also expanded considerably since the time of Jacques Guillemaud, particularly with the establishment of a further 25 hectares of vines in two plots, bringing the current total to somewhere in the order of 45 hectares. There is also a small plot of white vines, covering perhaps 5 hectares, these being 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 5% Muscadelle. The fruit is harvested by hand, with yields controlled to 45hl/ha. Once delivered to the property they are vinified in a chai which has seen considerably investment since the involvement of the Société Andros. New buildings were constructed to house the stainless steel and epoxy fermentation vessels, as well as the barrel cellar. After maceration the red wines go into oak for up to 18 months, the wood being typically up to 70% new each vintage, a marked increase on the 25% that was the norm under Guillemaud senior. The white wine also goes into oak and is aged on the lees for up to 12 months. The end result is the grand vin, Larrivet-Haut-Brion (typically 10000 cases per annum), both red and white (although four times more likely to be the former than the latter) although classified for neither – at the time of the Graves classification in 1953, which was ratified in 1959, Larrivet-Haut-Brion hardly existed.

This wine has a rather hot, smokey, and meaty style aromatically. On the palate it has a rather stylish and interesting dark fruit character, bright but deep and smokey, laid over a lot of substance and structure. A good amount of tannins here, giving the wine a big, grippy, heavily extracted feel. It is well-defined and lifted, and is rounded off by a clean finish.